focaccia

The italian yeast I bought turned out to be not exactly what I thought it would be… It’s supposed to be just mixed with the flour and sugar, not with warm water first. So I wasn’t sure what to do. Bakeries in Europe must have some special line on yeast and baking powder because what they sell in stores doesn’t seem to be close to what we get in the US. I also haven’t found a really good recipe for this yet, but today I tried with this:

100 grams whole wheat flour
100 grams white flour
2 T sugar
1 package yeast
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup water

Mix everything together adding more flour until it feels right. Knead and let rise. Punch down, knead and roll out for pans. Add toppings — Bella used rosemary; I used basil and garlic; we both added salt, pepper and garlic. Let rise. Poke with fingers to make small indents, bake for 30 min at 170C. Actually I’m not sure how long it baked, and i’m not sure what temp my oven really is. It was probably less than 30 min though, I took it out when it started to become very fragrant in the apt. Mine turned out fairly moist, Bella’s was much dryer, like the last one I made at Leslie’s. Her’s was also on the bottom shelf of the oven, maybe that had something to do with it. It tasted fine, but hardened quickly. Any suggestions on how to make this are welcome!

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Pollo Pollo

Bella and I each stuffed our chicken breasts: hers with fresh mozzarella, basil and garlic; mine with beets, almonds, garlic and sage.

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Then we breaded them with leftover whole wheat breadcrumbs, rosemary and polenta, and baked them in lemon juice and broth.

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We also revitalized the rice pudding from the other night with a bit more egg custard and mascarpone… much fluffier!

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concerto a cerreto

We walked down to Cerreto, a slightly larger village just below Pieve di Cerreto, and listened to the first half of this concert. The soloists had amazing voices — much better than the opera we saw on Sunday, though maybe it was just a better setting for this: a smaller space, much less traffic, and no cicadas.

Paoletta Marrocu

Boris Statsenko — from Chelyabinsk! Now I kind of wish we’d stayed until the end so I could have talked to him…

Albert Jelmoni

Antonio De Gobbi

Very intimate and sweet.

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Lasagna con zucchini e budino di riso

Monday Dinner, made possible by a generous donation of eggs from Giuliana

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(after Bella took blueberry muffins over to her)

Lasagna noodles
50 g farina di semola
25 g farina integrale
25 g farina
1 egg, 1 T olive oil, 1 T water

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Layer with:

Tomato-Meat sauce (from Saturday)
Ricotta-Garlic-Basil-Red Onion-Egg-Pepper
Sauce
Stracchino
Sauce
zucchini and zucchini flowers stuffed with parmesan
Parmesan
black olives

Bake at 170C for 30 min.

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The whole wheat pasta turned out really well! Very hearty but light too (we rolled it very thin with our new matterello.

Budino di riso

Boil 150g rice in 3/8 litre milk, about half through add tablespoon vanilla
add a little sugar & 1/8 c butter - boil until rice is fully cooked
cook 3 eggs in 1/8 litre millk, add 50 grams sugar stir constantly until thick

mix custard into rice, bake at 170 C for 30 min.

Slice peaches and strawberries into a pan, cook down with sunflower oil and saba until thick.

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The fruit cooked down really nicely and the pudding was just about like the kind you get in cafes here. It probably baked or sat a little too long, because it was a bit dry by the time we were ready for dessert. We also sliced fresh peaches and strawberries on top.

More photos…

opera

Tonight we saw the first act of La Boheme. The cicadas and crying babies were a bit too much, and without supertitles, Isabella wasn’t too excited about it. The voices were a bit soft anyway, but it was a nice set!

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pasticcini

Or at least that’s what the dictionary says. Muffins are pretty American, about as unlikely a find in Europe as brownies. But fresh blueberries were on sale (99 euro cents for 125 grams!) and I even found Italian-made bran cereal.

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The recipe is based on one from epicurious:

Mix together:
1 egg
1/4 c sunflower oil (instead of butter)
1/4 c milk

Others suggest using applesauce instead of all the oil, seems like a good idea. I also considered honey and reducing the sugar.

Mix together separately:
3/4 whole wheat flour
1/4 c sugar (i used less than half the amount called before because the bran cereal was sweetened)
1 t. baking powder (vanillized, as this is how it comes in Italy)
1/4 c bran cereal (i tried to crush it, but that was too tedious; as it was, it gave more crunchiness this way, as if I had put in sunflower seeds, which sounded good too, but i didn’t have any)

Combine the wet stuff into the dry stuff, fold in blueberries. Bake at ~218 C for ~20 min. I think my oven here is a bit too hot because I took them out just before the 20 min were up.

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We’d found muffin cups at the euro store. But no muffin tins anywhere… How does one make muffins without the tins? Bella brilliantly suggested doubling the papers, so we did and squeezed as many as we could into a small pan, but they still came out with some funky shapes.

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As a bonus, we had found a pastry tube at the 1 euro store too, and we wanted to try that out. I had left out some butter to eat with the muffins and when it softened I fluffed it up and it looked like frosting. And, wouldn’t you know, I had gotten some vanillized powdered sugar yesterday too, so we made icing and decorated them.

Now for a walk up the hill!

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Gnocchi!

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The people staying here last month left a bag of potatoes, so of course we must make gnocchi! My grandmother made this for us before I ever saw gnocchi on a menu. The first time I ordered it in a restaurant, I was surprised to see it and said, just like she did, “Gnawkey” — she was from Memphis (although her parents were both Italian immigrants). Now I know how to say it correctly, and I was pleased to find that I can make them just as well as she did! I found a recipe on epicurious. I don’t remember my grandmother putting parmesan in her dough, but maybe she did. I figured it certainly couldn’t hurt!

3 large (or several small) potatoes: boil until soft, then mash lightly. I started to peel mine before boiling them, then thought, why? I like the skin. So boiled them with their skin. When I started to mash them, the skin started coming off, so I removed the large pieces (and ate them). I added a little olive oil to the boiling water as well.

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Beat together:
1 large egg
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Add the egg to the potato and mix well. Then stir in
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

Knead in another cup of flour until you have soft dough. Don’t knead for more that 3 minutes.

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Divide into six pieces. Roll each piece into a long rope. Cute the rope into smallish 1″ pieces, then roll the small piece with your thumb to shape it.
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Use lots of flour to keep stuff from sticking! I boiled a pot of water with a half of a chicken bullion cube. Cook the gnocchi until they float to the top. They should be tender but firm (and tasty)!
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Unfortunately, my assistant didn’t chop enough tomatoes for the sauce, so it was mostly meat, which is ok, but it wasn’t as flavorful as last night’s. I had also added fresh basil and the remains of last night’s wine, along with the usual onion, garlic and balsamic vinegar.

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While eating I added more basil, and the secret ingredient, obtained from the balsamic vinegar factory we visited last summer.

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After dinner, I chopped up the remaining six tomatoes and cooked them with a little water and salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Added the left over meat and now it’s resting on the stove, and looking a lot more like spaghetti sauce!

nuoatare in Borgo a Mozzano

The town country club turned two of its tennis courts into 3 pools — a 30 meter lap pool and two small wading pools, one with a fountain. 6.50 euro each for the day until 7 pm. We were thinking we’d go to Bagni di Lucca today but when we saw the sign for this, we had to check it out. The lap pool was nearly empty so I was excited to do some swimming while bella could do whatever she wants. Not surprisingly, as soon as we got in the lap pool groups of kids decided to migrate there as well and stand around at the end of the lanes. Two boys started playing ball in the middle. I managed to still get a couple laps in before taking advantage of the sun and our lovely lawn chairs to take a nap.

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pompelmo

I love grapefruit, but even this seemed a bit odd. Bella insisted I should try it. So today for lunch (last night’s left-overs), I did. Not horrible… sort of like beer mixed with fresca, without the icky saccharine aftertaste. Not something I could drink everyday, it’s a bit too sweet and soda poppy for beer. But refreshing on hot day…

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Dinner in Italy

We arrived in Pieve di Cerreto Thursday evening — too late to go grocery shopping, so we had our usual first dinner at I Macelli. Excellent as always, we sat near a German couple from Erfurt who were camping all over Italy. They came to see the famous bridge and read about the excellent restaurant. They were having some trouble communicating with the waiters and asked what I was drinking — they called it Vino Tinto — I thought I’d heard that somewhere before, but couldn’t place it (Mexico, it turns out). I ordered them a mezzolitre di vino rosso and they were happy to start chatting with me. I’d been to Erfurt myself when I lived in Weimar for a month, so we talked about east germany, and driving around the US. Last year they camped all over southern california, utah and the grand canyon. We spoke german, which i then had to translate into English for Bella, while speaking italian to the waiters. Isabella was impressed by Andrew’s kids’ bilingualism and decided that she wanted to speak more Russian, so I had render everything in Russian as well. Hard enough as it is, but good thing I had my mezzolitre di vino rossi to help out!

For Friday’s dinner, we made it to the grocery store. One of the nice things about Italy is that food is cheap! Like it was in the central valley when I was a kid. As much as I love the Bay Area and Boston, the food prices there are always shocking to me. Tonight I made 100% semolina pasta. It turned out amazingly light and delicious. The best I’ve made so far! I also managed to roll it out quite thin, but because I didn’t have a machine, it didn’t get over rolled at all, and I think that helped.

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For sauce, I toasted several cloves of chopped garlic in olive oil, added some chopped red onion, four chopped roma tomatoes, dried rosemary (from the garden), sage, oregano and basil, and black pepper, with a few splashes of balsamic vinegar. Let that cook down for a while, until everything is soft and gooey. I also marinated some stracchino in olive oil and balsamic, and threw that on top of the pasta, along with the requisite parmesan cheese. And some prosciutto toscana e melone to munch along with it.

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